Cleaning Instructions

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Fursuit Basics: 
For brushes, I recommend a two-sided brush. You’ll find ones with long, thick wire or plastic pieces for combing out tangles and then a soft, bristly side for general upkeep. I’ve found these don’t tend to tear at fur like a short-wire brush. That said, feel free to use the wire brushes! They’re great for when the fur REALLY needs a good brush; like if you dance in it, or just washed it.
Remember: try to spot wash when you can. That’s putting a bit of laundry soap in some water and dabbing that onto the stain with a wet towel or paper towel, then wiping or, if it’s a single layer of fur or fabric, rinse it clean. 
Does your suit just smell a bit? You can mix up a quick remedy. One part Isopropyl Alcohol, one part water (filtered or distilled is best), and a few drops of essential oil or fragrance oil (nothing with dyes!). You can also buy this pre-mixed! Look up ‘Fursuit Spray.’ Let dry before wearing.

Basic Repairs:
Your pieces may need the occasional quick repair. It’s recommended to know how to sew a whip stitch (easy and quick but not strong: good for sudden tears), ladder stitch (great for closing up seams over the head’s base or any spot you can’t reach the inside of), and blanket stitch (strong and perfect for when you can’t get to a sewing machine). I prefer to use heavy-duty thread whenever I can (I like Gutterman thread but Cloaks and Clark can be picked up everywhere). Having a high temperature glue gun on hand is also good. 
Having a ‘fursuit kit’ with the above, some spray, a brush, and anything else you might need (I pack extra batteries and a handheld fan) is a very good idea. Keep it in a special ‘suiting bag’ if need be. You never know when you’ll need it! 
At a con and have no repair stuff, or knowledge into such? Try one of the vendors that sell fursuit parts. For a fee, they’ll probably be happy to help out. Expect them to hold onto that for a bit, though, as repairs take even longer when you’re selling things. 

Foam Heads:
     Throw in the washer.
Just kidding. Don’t do that. Please don’t do that.
      Regardless if your head is foam or resin, you’ll need to spot clean the majority of it. Do not submerge anything above the chin, or anything that feels stiff, foamy, or hard. Remove any removable piercings before cleaning (most can either be wiped down with a rag or soaked in soapy water). Take a wet rag, soak some of it, and use that rag to rub away (rub in the direction of the fur grain if you want to put off balding) the stain or mess. Do not get rag near the eyes or other painted parts. 
      For the neck, you can carefully dip that part into a bucket of water and laundry soap. You might need a second person to hold the head while you rub and scrub (gently!) the loose fabric. Mind any sewn manes, feathers, or otherwise. For heads with zippers in them, open the zippers and mind getting them twisted. 
     To dry, set the head on top of a little plug in fan. Try to angle it so nothing gets squished. You might have to prop the head on some towels or a plastic bin (some folks on Etsy, like EmpyreWares, sell these collapsible frames that can have a fan placed within them for drying).  Fiddle with it, see what feels like it has good airflow. Brush while damp and brush occasionally as it dries. 

Raptor Heads:
     Treat fur portions like above.
     The plastic mask can be wiped down with a wet face cloth. DO NOT USE ACETONE. You can use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for any scuffs, stuck on dirt, or otherwise that won’t come off. Keep in mind Magic Erasers are abrasive and can leave lasting damage on both the paint AND the plastic. 

Handpaws/Armsleeves:
     Remove all loops. Turn paws or armsleeves inside out. You can either put them in the washer on cold and delicate with liquid soap (do not use laundry pods) or handwash them in a sink with cold water. If you have resin, plastic claws, or painted material, you’ll need to handwash. Turn fur right side out and lay to dry; do not hang. Brush while damp.
      With paws with pockets, open the zipper before washing. If you want to, you can pull the pocket through for a bit more through clean. 

Tails:
    One-Piece Tails need to be hand-washed in cold water and a bit of laundry soap. Be mindful of scrubbing: do it in the direction of the fur. Lay dry, do not hang. Tail can be wrung out by rolling up in a towel to push water out. Brush while damp.
    Tails with zippers but no inner form should be unstuffed. Place stuffing in a laundry bag and wash seperate from the tail (tail can follow below method). The fluff bag can be washed like a stuffed form. Lay fluff and tail down as flat as possible and let dry. 
    Two-piece Tails will have a hidden zipper somewhere. If it’s a two-piece tail, remove the inside form via the zipper. Flip fur inside out and toss into the washer on cold and delicate (do not use laundry pods). Stuffed form needs to be hand-washed in cold water with a bit of laundry soap. Both items should be laid to dry. Do not hang dry. Stuffed form can be wrung dry by rolling it up in a towel to push water out. Brush while damp.
    Weighted Tails have a foam base and marbles forming a weight at the end. To see if you have a Weighted Tail, pinch around the end of the tail looking for the marbles. If you can’t find the marbles, check to see if the base feels oddly thick. If so; wash in cold water with a bit of laundry soap (do not use pods). DO NOT SUBMERGE BASE OF TAIL. Foam will hold in water and mold. Be mindful of scrubbing on the fur: clean in direction of fur pile. Lay or prop against wall (with base of tail up) to dry. Do not hang dry. All of the tail, except for the base, can be rolled up in a towel to press out water and quicken drying time. Brush while damp.

Feetpaws:
     Spot wash only. When drying, you can point a fan at the spot to help dry. Brush while damp.
     Outdoor feetpaw undersides can be wiped clean with a wet cloth and a bit of soap. 
     Sockpaws can be cleaned much like a set of puffy paws. Turning them inside-out will be difficult, so try putting the socks into a mesh laundry bag. 

Fursuit Storage: 
    My suits are stored as such; my head stays in her clear bag (custom made, you could totally commision one from another fine artist) and the suit parts are carefully hung from my closet door. Paws are hung by wrist-loops, sockpaws by the loops on the side, armsleeves by the back harness, wings by their harness, and tail by the belt. 
    There’s a wide variety of options for storage. A common one is carefully folding any long items (you can place paper between the folds if you want to) and laying them in a nice, tight-lidded bin. Heads may need their own bins. In both, place a moisture-absorbant pouch, box, or item to keep any possible chances for mold down. I save desiccant pouches from food and packages for this sort of thing. You can actually buy scented versions of these, keeping that weird attic smell at bay for a bit longer. 
     Another option is to do something similar to the above but, instead of a bin, you can put the items into a laundry bag. Specifically, those giant, terrifying ones sold online for college students with backs of steel. These come with handles and, sometimes, backpack straps. Larger suits you buy from me will come in a medium-sized version of these. Desiccant packet this one too and you’ll be good. 
    There’s more than just these options. The things to take away is careful folding and desiccant packets. Lots of desiccant packets. And be sure to change those out every so often! 

Bandanas: 
    Wash in the Washing Machine on your usual settings! Then toss into the dryer. Super easy. Wash untied.
   Bandana with plastic pieces (like a Bandana clip or very shiny tinsel thread) cannot be dried in a machine. (Exception: the buttons used on newer bandanas should be fine, but might chip. Feel free to follow this set of directions if you’re worried.) Hang to dry.

Named Bandanas:
    Wash in the washer on cold and delicate. Feel free to put it in a mesh laundry bag. Hang or lay to dry; do not put in the dryer. Do not wash tied. 

Collars:
    Remove all tags, bells, or otherwise. Hand wash in sink. Use a bit of soap and rinse until water runs clear and free of soap bubbles. Towel off any metal or plastic pieces and then hang or lay flat to dry. 
    If you wash with tags or bells on, mind any metal parts that could rust. Do not put in the washer: it could chip the plastic components or damage your washer. 
     If the collar has vinyl, mind any heat or scrubbing you might apply.

Plush toys: 
    Small plush toys can be put into a dryer bag or a pillowcase and tossed into the washer on cold and delicate. Do not put it in the dryer. Lay to dry. Roll up in a towel to wring out water to quicken drying time. 
    Large plush toys, or plush toys with paint, vinyl, or decor must be hand washed in cold water with a bit of soap (no laundry pods). Scrub gently. Lay to dry. Roll up in a towel to wring out water to quicken drying time. 
    Most currently made plush toys have plastic squeakers in them. Do not put them in the dryer. 

Kigurumis: 
    All Kigus are made with anti-pill fleece, minky, zippers, polyester fiberfill, and interfacing. They’re washer safe with all known soaps on delicate. Do not bleach. If the kigu has polyfill, or you prefer not to risk further shrinkage, lay it out to dry. If the item lacks fluff, you can put it into the dryer on delicate. 

Squishies:
     Arceus help you. 

Plastic Chains:
Chains vary in construction. Most fursuit Chains are made of a hardy plastic, thus making them easy to clean. Just pop in some warm, soapy water and gently scrub with the soft side of a sponge.
Chains that are not permanently linked may come undone if you’re too rough with them. All Chains may scuff. Be gentle!

Resin Jewelry:
   Clean as recommended for costume jewelry. Resin is heat-reactive, so only use warm water. 
   If your item is scratched or damaged, please contact me to see if I can repair it. If you’re done with that piece and ready to move on, consider donating to the I Have Wings foundation; they clean up old costume jewelry, sell it, and put the profits towards helping cancer patients. 
   If the piece is damaged beyond repair, see local recycling laws. Scrap metal is often appreciated but resin is a plastic and thus subject to local laws.

Chewelry:
    Boil wash. If the water is really steaming, you’re good. Run over necklace or dip into pot before laying out on a clean towel/paper towel to air-dry. You can also add some soapy water and scrubbing if you want to, but be sure to wash off all the soap. 
    Apparently, you can put these things in the dishwasher. Put it into the topmost, very thin rack flat or carefully fold into one of the enclosable parts of the utensil rack.

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